Equipment is expensive! The storage of colors and flags needs to be considered carefully to ensure your equipment lasts.
Maintenance of Staffs

The Guidon Staff Repair Kit. The kit is necessary to have on hand and only available from Mil-Bar.com. In the kit, you have brass machine screws and brass connectors (tubes). The connectors insert into the holes on the guidon flagstaff and the screws secure into the connectors. The short connectors are for the ferrules and the long connectors are for the middle screw joint.
Continuous flagstaff maintenance is very necessary. Always ensure the screws are tight on the middle screw joint and each ferrule monthly. However, there comes a time when you might overlook tightening one screw, it works it way loose with constant use, and it’s gone. What makes matters worse is losing the inner brass connector to which both screws attach. These connectors are critical for securing the middle screw joint and the upper and lower ferrules to the staff. Many throughout the years have relied on a wood screw to make up for the lost screw(s) and connector(s). It might work for a while but there’s a better way.
Powdered graphite. This is a key item to have in your toolkit. Applying graphite powder on the threads of the screw joint, each screw, and the screw post for the finial will help keep them locked in place and yet allows easy removal if necessary.

Storing Colors and Flags: Short-Term
Colors are flags mounted on a flagstaff that have a staff sleeve and fringe. A note here: The Navy has flags that have a staff sleeve without fringe that are solely for outdoor display on a mast. The sleeve adds strength against high winds. These flags are not carried by a color guard (no fringe). There is also the battalion flag that has a staff sleeve and is not authorized to have fringe because it can be displayed on a mast and also carried in a color guard (the only exception).
The photo at the top of the page was taken during my visit in 2018 to Marine Barracks Washington (MBW). That is the how the Color Guard of the Marine Corps stores all its colors for the different teams that are sent out each day in and around Washington DC and the country.
Here is a different view to show the battle streamer storage rack below on the left.


Above, on the right, at the 3rd Infantry Regiment, The Old Guard’s Continental Color Guard (CCG), the team uses a similar storage system to Marine Barracks Washington but drapes the flags back over the staff. This minimizes the flag material, which is quite heavy, from stretching.

Storing Colors and Flags: Long-Term
When storing colors, not flags, for a longer period, the best thing to do is remove it from the staff, fold it twice lengthwise, and drape it over a hanger.
This method is the best for long-term storage of colors. It minimizes wrinkles and creases and, when you put a garment bag over the color, it will remain virtually dust-free.
Use of Colors
Don’t iron colors, you could easily damage the material. Make sure you steam your colors before each performance. The material will not be perfectly flat, that just won’t happen but do your best to get wrinkles and creases out so that, at least, they becomes softer waves in the material.
The same goes for streamers. Steam them.
Storing Flags
A flag can be folded into a rectangle (civilians) or a triangle (military* and civilians). Either is appropriate, depending on your status.

*Military status includes Active Duty, Reserve, National Guard, Veterans, and all cadet programs. All in this category are required to fold the flag as our service manuals dictate.
When folded into a triangle, the plastic storage bag is an option to keep the flag free of dust. The bag should not be left in direct sunlight as that will create moisture to appear inside the bag and could damage the flag.

A flag is folded into a tight rectangle when brand new, boxed, and mail to you. The reason for this is because civilians are not required to fold the flag at all.

The rectangle is good, loose or tight, and so is rolling the flag.



Why roll the flag for storage? Because it can cause less wrinkles. If your military unit is hoisting the flag every morning and lowering it each evening, the only option you have is to fold the flag into a triangle and store it that way. Rolling is more for long-term storage.
Iron your flag if it is cotton. Steam all the rest of your flags and colors.
Cleaning Flags and Colors
For synthetic fabrics – cold water, machine wash normal cycle, and air dry. Mild detergent or, better yet, pure soap.
For wool/cotton fabrics cold water soak with Oxy Clean or similar product then gentle cycle with cold water. Extra rinse and air dry.



My eleven interment training flags needed to be washed. That is what you see in the photos above. I folded the first three we washed without ironing or steaming the wrinkles out of them and left them folded for 24 hours to see the results. After opening the flags, they are all still quite wrinkled and need to be gently ironed.
After washing, hanging out to dry, and ironing, the fibers in the flags tightened and shrank just a tiny bit making them “crisp” again with the first fold for each turning out really well.
Colors Harnesses, Web Belts, and Gloves

Sometimes the harness is called a “sling”. Using that term can confuse team members since the rifles have a sling attached. Use “harness”.

Clarino is a type of poromeric (fake, shiny) leather just like the corfam (not “corfram”) shoes we wear in uniform, the clarino colors harness (shown at the right) is black with a very high gloss. There are also leather colors harnesses that come in black and white that do not have a shine to them. All three of these need to be wiped down with a clean damp cloth and the leather should be treated with a leather conditioner on a regular basis.
The rectangular socket frame should be wiped down and the screws checked and tightened regularly. This is the type of frame and socket that is best. The Marine Corps and even the Army use a socket that has a smaller mouth to it and the socket moves on a ball joint.
Notice that the straps of the clarino harness attach to themselves and have only one attachment point at the top of the harness socket frame. This provides the best balance for carrying a flagstaff. The harness below has four attachment points to the frame. I do not suggest using this type, regardless of the socket itself.

The harness at the top right has the four-point shoulder strap attachment points to the shield-type frame and a plastic cup. I cannot recommend this at all.
Below it, you see the belt harness. This is mostly used by law enforcement who already have quite a bit of equipment over their shoulders and on their torso. It’s understandable but then it forces the team to use the telescoping flagstaffs (that are absolutely junk). I cannot recommend this either.
Cleaning web harness straps and belts is easily done with a stiff yet soft brush. DO not wipe with a paper towel as that will fall apart and leave bits of the towel in the material. If you have white web straps, belts, and gloves that need to be cleaned, if you use bleach, the chemical will cause the material to yellow over time. Use a fingernail brush and a little dishwashing liquid. Avoid getting metal tabs wet as they will rust.
Rifles

For working rifles, there’s the standard maintenance that you can find in military manuals and online. This includes cleaning the barrel and oiling the metal, etc. For a replica rifle, using a damp cloth to regularly keep the rifle clean is probably the most you need to do.
Long-term storage of today’s replica rifles is something you need to consider. There is the Daisy Drill Rifle, an M1903A3 replica, and there are several different types of DrillAmerica Replica rifles that are made to look like the M1 Garand and the M1903A3.
A note here on slings. For long-term storage, you may want to consider dismounting the slings and removing the metal from the slings as those metal pieces and the sling swivels on the rifle can create grooves in the sling material and also stain the material.

I like both brands of replica rifles, but as I explain in my article, Which Drill Rifle is Better: Glendale or Daisy? the Glendale rifles have a coating on all the metal parts. That means it will last longer without rust or corrosion developing. The Daisy is not coated at all, and you will see rust on the barrel within the first year.
In the drier climates, the rust and corrosion are less likely to form, while in the southeast, rust is waiting at the door the moment the new rifles are unboxed. I know of JROTC instructors who have taken all of their rifles to a gunsmith and had all the metal parts blued. It’s a smart thing to coat the metal with something, even good ol’ Rustoleum is better than nothing.
Replica Rifle Stocks

Dings and bruises are bound to happen. The stocks of most replica rifles are made of a composite material, essentially a hardened plastic.
At right is a photo of a couple of my training rifles. In the foreground is a DrillAmerica M1 Garand and in the background are a couple of older DrillAmerica Mark (MK) 1 Enfield M1917 replicas.
For the Mark 1s, it would be a matter of removing or taping over the upper receiver, trigger housing, sling swivels, and barrel end and just spray painting the stock with whatever color I think would be best. I have had an idea for years of having an exhibition drill team with two different rifle colors using the school colors which would be reflected in the shoulder cord colors, ascot, and even the gloves.
For the M1 Garand with the wood grain stock, a small, slight ding can be covered by a brown permanent marker. Any kind of mark that is large or if there are many marks like on my rifle shown here, you will have to try an alternative method of painting or taping.
Drill and ceremonies trainer David Simons in North Carolina uses friction tape. The tape does not leave a sticky residue and can be easily replaced. Eagles Hockey Tape, used on baseball bats, lacrosse and hockey sticks, tennis rackets, and much more, is what he recommends.
Vexillologist DeVaughn Simper suggests Flex Seal as a paint alternative. This product comes in a variety of colors and is extremely strong.

Jason Boykin, one of my connections on LinkedIn, suggested using a vinyl wrap, purchasing the vinyl in bulk and then applying it to the stock parts.
Stuart Montgomery, from my Facebook page, recommends ACF50. It is used worldwide by the marine & aviation industry as well as domestically in the vehicle/motorcycle sector & US military to prevent corrosion.
He noted, “Having used it extensively on motorcycles which were subjected to hostile weather (winter road salt, etc.) I swear by it. Only the very, very lightest application is required for long-term protection.
“It’s amazing! As an experiment, he sprayed half of a metal file, left it outdoors for 6 months. The untreated half quickly corroded while the treated half was like new! Only the lightest application is required. Clean the surface, spray the ACF50 onto a cloth and wipe down.”
Several readers like to use CLP – “Cleanz-Oil,” or Hoppe’s Break Free. I recommend Hoppe’s Number 9 after the corrosion is gone.
A couple of readers also mentioned Ballistol and CLP Break Free gun cleaners and lubricants.
Marcus Santana suggested powder or ceramic coating (not very expensive) or plating (expensive).
Greg Swiertz wrote, “I think naval jelly for rust removal and then ACF 50 like Stuart recommended. Sanding can embed the rust, and the cycle is never ending. Ceramic clear coat is another option.
Dan Fystro mentioned, “I have worked on some severely corroded metal part in my life, at home and on the job. In a mechanic situation the cheapest rust inhibitor and break free item I have found is automatic transmission fluid. Heat it up while it is on the part until it smokes. saturate again and smoke off. This combination has done wonders for me trying to break parts free. Side note the use of white vinegar will chemically stop rust from growing so you can treat with further rust preventive measures and/or paint coverage. These may not solve the issue you are having but I thought I would bring this up since in most cases these weapons will not be used to fire ammunition, and it would not be a safety factor.”
Greg Adams commented, “corrosion doesn’t have to happen. It happens when there is neglect. The metal needs to be wiped down EVERY time with a Ballistol/CLP/fluid film/whatever… If it gets wet, it needs to be dried first, then wiped. Rusty guns, rusty tools, doesn’t matter, that corrosion shown is neglect, period. Now, you could buff it with 4 ought steel wool and oil it, or get it redone. Either way, it needs to be maintained.”
Conclusion
If you want to keep your equipment looking nice for as long as possible, maintain it properly.
Did I miss anything? Please let me know!