The DrillMaster Bayonet is for the M1 Garand and M1903 rifles, it is a real bayonet, but the blade tip is rounded, it does not have a sharp edge and has welds for extra stability- there is also an unwelded version. Armed drill has a certain amount of danger; drilling bladed ups the ante considerably. The DrillMaster Bayonet is a ‘safer’ bayonet for Drillers.
Click on the DrillMaster Bayonet tab to order yours now!
Bayonet Information (Learn as much as you can before buying)
Gary Cunningham has a website that has a great deal of information about bayonets.
- The M6 (6.625 in.*) bayonet is made for the M14 rifle
- The M1905 (16 in.*) is made for both the M1 Garand and the M1903 rifles
- M1942 (16 in.* an exact copy of the M1905) is made for both the M1 Garand and the M1903 rifles
- The M1 (10 in.*, a shortened M1905) is made for both the M1 Garand and the M1903 rifles
- The M1 (10 in.*) is made for both the M1 Garand and the M1903 rifles
- The M5, M5-1 and M5A1 (6.625 in.*) are made for the M1 Garand rifle
About original bayonets
US WW2 made:
AFH – American Fork and Hoe
OL – Oneida Limited
PAL – Pal Blade and Tool
UC – Utica Cutlery
UFH – Union Fork and Hoe
Made post WW2 (mostly in the 1950s) in other countries. Excellent copies, parts usually interchangeable.
Italy – several possible letter markings, does not use the US Shell and Flame mark.
Denmark – marked FKF, no shell and flame.
Japan – marked N P with a J under the shell and flame.
Taiwan – marked 60-6 over KS (markings inverted), no shell and flame.
Norway – marked with a crowned ornate K over the shell and flame.
Greece – EN-S over the shell and flame
You will want to get a reproduction bayonet since real bayonets can be expensive and can also be collector’s items.
Stay away from these web sites (non-drill worthy bayonets)
- Cheaper Than Dirt- there is a reason why they are “cheaper than dirt”
DrillMaster Bayonet, bayonets, armed drill, bladed drill, driller, drill team, exhibition drill